Kawasaki parts diagram




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    Please check back in a few minutes. Cannot be applied to previous purchases and cannot be redeemed for cash. Quality Motorcycle Upgrades BikeBandit. Tony Appexy March 7, at 5: Kawasaki OEM Parts Your biking style may be unique, but the high standards for maintaining your motorcycle should always remain the same.

    Kawasaki Parts House: OEM Parts Diagrams & Accessories

    It is meant to filter out large particles from the oil before it reaches the oil pump. It's a good idea to check it if you haven't already.

    Some klr and klr owners have reported finding a ton of debris clogging the screen. This vacuum line is missing from my non-california bike. What does it connect to on the other end? Can you point where you see that part number?

    I don't see it on the diagrams. Oh ok, B is the carb vent line. It runs toward the back of the bike to a bracket right in front of the wheel. You'll probably find the float bowl drain and coolant overflow lines going to the same place. I'm familiar with the area. There's also an air box drain thru the bracket. Actually the coolant overflow is routed under the seat to the rear fender to keep from overflowing in the path of the rear tire.

    Accidently backed out the idler pulley bolt too far and can't get it back in. Anyone have any ideas on how to realign the pulley without tearing the head down? See Camshafts and Tensioner Breakdown - Part That's a tough one. I haven't been in there in a while so I can't remember if there is any room.

    Unfortunately you've got to remove the swingarm to get the new protector on. You'll need to figure out a way of supporting the frame of your bike so you can unbolt the swingarm and slide the new protector in place. All so may I inform other klr owners to be aware that after some years the air duct from air box to carby tends to harden and shrink then can slip off carby and allow dirt into motor happened to mine, recently saw 2 other bikes with same problem.

    You are correct, the carb will probably swap over though it would need to be rejetted. The front suspension probably won't work unless you were to swap the entire front section forks, wheel, brakes, etc from the KLX. No unfortunately the whole rear end is different so it won't swap over. Check to make sure the slide diaphragm isn't pinched under the top cover or torn. Also make sure the carb to engine and airbox to carb connections are tight, any air leaks will make it nearly impossible to start.

    Where can i find a set of used front forks for a 03 klr ? Sander, the KLR camshaft tensioner isn't adjustable. Some say you can remove it and replace it and in doing so the spring will re-tension but in my experience that is more likely to hurt an old tensioner more than help. If you really think it is worn out then just replace it with a new one.

    They aren't cheap but at least you won't have to worry about it anymore. Hi Mike I had my klr top end rebuilt 3 years ago ran it in as owners manual stated but it has always used oil lately it blows a fair bit of smoke after cold start,valve stem seals were replaced during rebuid, could it be that the rings failed to seat properly from riding it to easy from start,may be i should have ridden it hard instead, what do you think Mike.

    It only blows smoke when cold? Are you certain it is oil and not smoke from being rich? If it is oil smoke then I'd say something probably wasn't done correctly during the rebuild, possibly inncorect rings or rings that weren't placed on the pistons correctly. Unfortunately it is impossible to say for sure without tearing it apart. Something that just came to mind, there is a crankcase breather tube that goes from the engine to the airbox.



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